Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>neo-traditional Western
Subject: cowboy
Culture: American country/western
Setting: American West
Evolution1875 American cowboy > neo-traditional Western




Context

* Polhemus 1994 p23
"Streetstyle -- essentially urban in character, typically requiring the streetcorner or the nightclub dance-floor as a stage -- doesn't at first glance appear comfortably to embrace Western Style -- a style whose natural habitat is the rolling plains and the prairie.  But because streetstyle is an embodiment of dreams, its inspirations need never be limited to its actual environment.  in the 1970s, after all, Funk and Glam styles reached out to distant galaxies.  And in the 1930s and 1940s people in towns and cities across North America reached out to a mythic heritage of the great outdoors as a source of stylistic and ideological inspiration.
    "Why did Western Style appeal at this particular point in history?  The reasons are many and varied.  Firstly, the rapid urbanization of the thirties and forties left many new city dwellers homesick for a rural way of life which the Dust Bowl disaster, the Depression and the industrial needs of the war effort obliged them to leave behind.  Secondly, Western Style reflected and celebrated a demographic shift away from the East Coast, which had previously monopolized American culture.  Thirdly, the American South was striving to find itself a positive identity and various historical factors conspired to make this most feasible if the imagery of the Southwest were emphasized at the expense of the Southeast.  And finally, at a time of great hardship, the cowboy's rugged determination and triumph over adversity offered a symbol which all Americans could cherish."


Hat

* Sims 2015 p073-075


Tie

* Greenlaw 1993 p68
"Because cowboys and cowgirls believe in comfort as well as style, the bolo tie has gained favor. Whether the neck of the shirt is left open or closed, the wearer still looks fashionably dressed. The bolo is a braided leather thong that has silver tips and a decorative slide. Native Americans of the southwest created these ties, but they were first produced commercially by Rockmount Ranch Wear Manufacturing Company."


Costume

* Polhemus 1994 p23
"If the cowboy hadn't existed he would have had to have been invented. And, in a sense, he was.   All those 'Singing Cowboy' epics and B-movies which Hollywood churned out between the mid-1930s and the mid-1940s were more concerned with mythmaking than with historical accuracy. This was especially true of the dress styles. Real cowboys had been paid low wages and had worked long, arduous hours doing dirty jobs. To imagine that they could have ended up looking like Gene Autry or Roy Rogers is absurd. But America needed a vision of itself and Hollywood happily obliged.
      "So too did the music industry. While 'country and western' had most of its musical roots in Appalachia and the American Southeast, its visual appearance quickly ditched 'hillbilly' styles for 'cowboy and western' accoutrements."

* McDowell 1997 p126
"The dress of the working cowboy -- especially his jeans and boots -- has been so absorbed into modern urban fashion that it is now worn with confidence, and even conviction, by men who would run a mile if asked to sit in a saddle.  What is it about cowboy gear that gives it such pulling power?  The masculine authority that it suggests is more to do with myth than reality.  There is no evidence that cowboys were more courageous than troopers or that their lives were more difficult than those of trappers, but such beliefs have sunk so deeply into our collective psyche that even the most diffident of men can, by wearing cowboy clothes, believe themselves to be part of the hard-drinking, hard-riding, hard-fighting dreamworld into which we have turned the cowboy life."

* O'Hara 1986 p81
"cowboy  Fashion based on the working clothes of American cowboys and early American pioneers, which included check cotton shirts, bandannas, jeans or gauchos, and thick-heeled boots decorated with tooled leather.  Ponchos and fringed leather jackets were also worn.  Cowboy fashions were popular in the late 1960s and 1970s."


Belt

* Sims 2015 p144
​"Although more outlandish buckle designs are often associated with the cowboys of the American Wild West, the fact is that the original pioneers and frontiersmen would have worn suspenders.  It was only in the early twentieth century that western, Native Indian and rodeo-influenced plate buckle designs took hold -- including the traditional Navajo combination of silver and turquoise; eagles or longhorn cattle; and the Stars and Stripes -- by which time the public image of the cowboy was already becoming the stuff of mythology.  This, of course, was enhanced further by Hollywood's golden age of westerns from the 1930s to 1960s.  For Red River (1948) director Howard Hawks gave John Wayne and other cast members belts with a silver buckle depicting the Red River ranch's cattle brand, a D with two wavy lines; years later Wayne made a return gift of a buckle to Hawks.
    "This glossier cowboy image is what would come to inform the dress of some country and western singers and -- in wildly exaggerated form -- the white rhinestone-covered jumpsuit style worn by Elvis Presley for performances through the 1970s."


Boots

* Sims 2015 p017-018
"It was Hollywood's efforts during the 1930s to turn the mythology of the cowboy into cinematic gold, initially thorugh actors such as Gene Autry and Roy Rogers, that the cowboy boot was first worn for fashion.  Outside America's Midwest, today the cowboy boot can sometimes be perceived as being a largely decorative, folk-art form of bygone dress, with its rococo shape, ornate leatherwork and, of course, more than a hint of the nineteenth century about it, jarring with twenty-first century urban life.  Yet its unisex design -- both men and women of the 'Wild West' rode and ranched -- was shaped by consideration for its function while riding a horse.
    "As for decoration, that was an imaginative response to the fact that cowboy boots are stitched on the outside so that no seams are left to rub against the foot or leg on the inside.  The more ornate take on the boot, with inlays and overlays of boldly patterned and coloured leathers, only arrived on later styles of cowboy boot, from the 1920s onwards, when boots began to be worn for show as much as for work.  Rodeo blended ranch skills with entertainment, while Hollywood sought to give its big-screen cowboys ever more spectacle."