Forensic Fashion
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>Costume Studies
>>1940 LandDayak panjamon
Subjectpanjamon warrior
Culture: Land Dayak
Setting: tribal warfare, Kalimantan 19-20thc





Context (Event Photos, Period Sources)

* Spruit 1995 p132-133
"There was much rivalry between the various [Dyak] tribes which led to endless struggles and wars, during which the taking of conquered enemies' heads was common practice. Human heads also had an important ceremonial value, for instance for a warrior's wedding ceremony."


Hat

* Early Chinese art and the Pacific basin 1968 p86  
"War caps plaited from thick rattan withes were part of the elaborate regalia worn by a Kayan warrior during raids to secure human heads and slaves.  If successful, the returing warrior was permitted to add two barred tail-feathers from the hornbill bird to his cap."


Sword (Ihlang, Latok)

* Richter 1993 p26
"Parang ... are cutlasses.  The Dyaks of inland Kalimantan are highly respected swordsmiths.  Their finest parang are used ceremonially, but the plainer ones serve a variety of practical domestic purposes such as slaughtering animals, slashing vegetation and splitting coconuts in half with a single blow.  Earlier this century, parang ilang or mandau were used for head-hunting.  The individual qualities and histories of parang, like those of krises, are the subject of legend and song:
This sword is made of poisonous steel
The treasure of the past
Honoured by blood many times
By fighting wildly it became famous.
Carried along rivers,
Never abandoned, morning or evening.
Body protection everywhere."


Shield

* Benitez & Barbier 2000 p150
"This type of shield, known as klau or kliau, consists of a thin, lightweight wooden plank reinforced by four horizontal bands of bound rattan.  The obverse is always adorned with a complicated curvilinear decoration, the central element of whch is the head of a monster, perhaps derived from the Indian kala that possesses the same large circular eyes and mouth bristling with fangs.  This monster, named udo(q) or kambe according to Bernard Sellato, is invested with the power to ward off evil spirits. [...]
    ​"The relatively common Kenyah-Kayan shields of this kind only come from the large semicircular territory either side of the Mahakam River.  On the other hand, the oval basketry, bark or wooden shields of the Iban (formerly known as the Sea Dayak) and the painted shields made by the Bidayu or the Murut, ... are far less widely known."

* Hersey 1991 p44
"Painted and finely decorated shields were carried by Kenyah men when going into battle.  In addition to the physical protection the shield provided, it was vested with magic.  The front side of the shield usually bore a large anthropomorphic head combining human and aso attributes, while the back displayed one or two splayed human figures with tendrils growing out of their heads to represent spirit figures.  The front was also sometimes decorated with human hair from the heads of enemies slain in former battles."

* Stone 1934 p363
"KLIAU, KLAU. The commonest and most typical Dyak shield.  It is carved, handle and all, from a single piece of wood three or four feet long and eighteen to twenty inches wide. The ends are pointed and the shield curves in both directions with a ridge down the center. It is usually laced across the ends to prevent its splitting. The decoration is sometimes confined to staining the ends and borders, at others the whole surface is painted with grotesque or geometrical figures. With some tribes it is almost covered with tufts of human hair."

* Feest 1980 p86 f98
"The outside of many Dayak shields is painted with one or more demons' heads, a design which possibly derives from Chinese dragon- or tiger-shields. Human hair surrounds the fearsome faces. The inside may be decorated with similar motifs or with a pair of smiling anthropomorphic figures."


Jacket








Blowpipe

* van Zonneveld 2001 p131-133
"SUMPITAN  [LEPUT, LOHINGLAMBI, PUT, SIPET, SUMPIT] KALIMANTAN
The sumpitan is a blow-pipe made of a single piece of hardwood, preferably of the niagang-tree which has a straight grain and hardly any knots. ...
​    "To the tip a spear-point is attached which is tied to the exterior using rattan. This tip is almost always made of iron, but sometimes a tip made of ironwood (Eusideroylon zwageri, Fam. Lauraceae) occurs. In the binding, opposite the spear tip, we often find a wooden, bone or metal 'foresight (klahulon) in order to aim better. Using resin, a cowrie shell is sometimes attached to the shaft serving as a foresight. The mouth-piece may have a horn ring or a ring of resin (damar). The sumpitan is used to fire darts at birds and small game, but also in combat.
​    "The sumpitan comes with blow-darts (langa), a quiver (tolor or tavang) and a small gourd (hung) in which are stored the small cones of the pith of a tree or of a certain species of thorny creepers which are attached to the back of the darts. These serve to close the bored holes so that the darts can be blown out forcefully. Furthermore, instruments are used to prepare the poison (ipoh) and to apply it to the tips of the darts. There we find a small instrument to mould the cones into the correct size making them fit exactly into the bored hole of the sumpitan.
​    "The darts have a range of c.35-54 m, but for a direct hit the range is c.20-25 m. When leaving the blow-pipe, the darts allegedly have a speed of 180 km per hour. The sumpitan is also known as sumpit (Iban), leput (Kayan), sipet (Ngaju) and put (Punan)."

* Feest 1980 p70
"As an implement of war it [the blowgun] is limited to Kalimantan and some other areas of the Indonesian archipelago, and is always the same type: a plain hardwood pole, bored and regularly fitted with an iron bayonet and sometimes a sight. The tiny darts, with only breath to propel them, would cause little harm to man were they not tipped with one of several poisons such as ipoh or siren. Even so, their use in war declined during the centuries of European contact."