Subject: Bauer peasant
Culture: Tyrolean Austrian
Setting: Biergartens, Oktoberfest, late 19thc and after
Context (Event Photos, Period Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)
* Racinet 1988 p262
"Like Bavaria, the Tyrol contains many different types of people. In the east, the population consist of Germans and Slavs, while in the west it is made up of Germans and Latins. The beauty of the Tyroleans' mountain environment, their appealing costume, their hunting skills and their songs and traditions all combine to charm and delight visitors to the region."
* Mann 1950 p172, 173-174
"There is nowhere so far west in Europe where native costume lingers more persistently than in the remoter districts of Tyrol, and these costumes make an unusually interesting study, for they are of infinite variety and every valley has its own innumerable characteristics. ... The men throughout the Inn Valley wear costumes differing in detail ...; longer breeches sometimes reach below the knee, and there are throughout Tyrol large brimmed hats, varying considerably in shape, white shirts with sleeves gathered just off the shoulders, fancy braces and belts, the last two brightly coloured and very popular. Stockings of white ribbed wool are most unusual, with shoes or boots made of ordinary black leather.
"[...] The men's costume, for our purpose at all events, is a shirt, a type of bolero or short waistcoat, short coat or cape, trousers, and long boots. Taking these in their order, we have first, the shirts, beautifully embroidered, their fronts ornamented with drawn threadwork. In the Tyrol and Salzburg districts belts are embroidered with peacock quills. The waistcoat is usually made of some thick material and decorated with embroidery or buttons. As a rule only the lower buttons are used, and occasionally the top and bottom buttons only are fastened, leaving a large gap through which the front of the shirt is visible. The coats or capes, worn either over a waistcoat or, when no waistcoat was worn, next to the shirt, vary considerably. There are, however, two types which predominate -- the long coat reaching almost to the knee, with no collar, but many bright buttons down the front, and the much shorter coat, with no buttons but with fancy lapels instead.
"The trousers are tight-fitting garments, generally right down to the ankles, and are curiously decorated with embroidery from the waist a short way down each leg. Top-boots are shaped at the top and fastened with short tassels. They have not, however, always been the invariable rule, and they occasionally gave way to flat shoes or sandals strapped to the feet with leather strappings; when these were worn the trousers would be secured tightly round the ankles with buttons. Men's hats are many and varied. Two of the most distinctive are the dark felts with large brims, either straight or turned up, and the red flower-pot-shaped hats decorated with flowers or peacocks' feathers."
* Fashion 2019 p446 caption
"Like their Bavarian neighbors, Tyroleans wear Lederhosen, but the most distinctive features of their dress are the green loden jacket and the feathered Tyrolean hat."
* Fashion 2019 p460
"TYROLEAN HAT A felt hat similar to a fedora, with a tapering crown, a brim turned up at the sides, and a feather cockade on one side; often moss green in color."
* Racinet 1988 p262
:A peasant from Oetzhal wearing a remarkable hat with a bell-shaped rim. His joppe, or jacket, is made of dark brown cloth."
* Fashion 2019 p448
"LEDERHOSEN Traditional leather shorts with suspenders, worn by men in the high-altitude Alpine areas of Germany and Austria ...."
"LODEN A thick, napped wool fabric made in Austria and Germany, used for coats and jackets and typically dyed forest green; also a coat made from this fabric, with a long pleat at the back."