Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg


>Costume Studies
>>Celtic punk subculture
Subject: punk rocker
Culture: Scottish/Irish youth
Setting: Britain 1980s on
Evolution1975 Anglo-American punk > Celtic punk subculture

Context (Event Photos, Primary Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)



* Punk! 2012 p136
"Early punks commonly cropped their hair and made it look messy or dyed it unnatural colours. Later, the Mohican -- Mohawk in the USA -- began to gain favour."


* Young/Matin 2017 p84-85
"The British punk movement of the late 1970s mixed tartan with leather, ripped nylon and vinyl for an anti-Establishment look that sought to evade class systems. Punks favoured the Stewart tartan, with its subversive historical links, worn ripped, in strips mended with safety pins worn in trouser form or as adapted kilts mirroring the Sex Pistols' cover for God Save the Queen, which featured a defaced image of Queen Elizabeth II, used on T-shirts by Vivienne Westwood. As the styles of different tribes became intertwined, a time of cultural change began in Britain. The movement was led by pioneers such as Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood, and encapsulated music, art and politics. Westwood was a trend leader, mixing tartan with spiked dog collars, safety pins and bondage wear, embodying the style revolution taking place around their Kings Road boutique. Experimentation with tartan and clashing patterns was a powerful statement with 'people wearing fancy dress and old clothes, just like they did in Paris in 1972 ... with these clothes, you want to look rakish, you want to look like you can walk down the street feeling like you own it and you're Jack-the-Lad.'"

​* Banks/de la Chapelle 2007 p270
​"... British punks used tartan as a form of protest against the establishment."

​* Horwood 2005 p158
​"[I]n the 1980s, punks added tartan to their wardrobes of leather, chains, studs and Mowhawk hairstyles -- creating just about the strangest interpretation of Scottish clanhood ever seen."

​* Punk! 2012 p142
"Tartan was [a] ... popular material with punks, who often wore short kilts over bondage trousers."

* Young/Martin 2017 p205
"Royal Stewart tartan was perhaps the preferred fabric for punks because it was so easily available from charity shops and bargain bins. A kilt could be customized and modified and the safety pin appropriated for use elsewhere. The tartan also acted as a a symbol both of rebellion and of the Establishment. The Royal Stewart is the queen's official tartan, while also championed by rebels during the Jacobite uprisings, who fought for the House of Stewart."

* Punk! 2012 p168
"Kilts, both full-length and short, became a favourite form of dress among punks, who wore them over tartan or other trousers. A bum flap was a popular addition to a pair of bondage trousers."