Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg


>Costume Studies
>>1940 Land Dayak panjamon
Subjectpanjamon warrior
Culture: Land Dayak
Setting: tribal warfare, Kalimantan 19-20thc
Objectsape jacket

* Dallas Museum of Art > Pacific Islands
"Ceremonial jacket (sape manik)  Indonesia: Kalimantan, Upper Kapuas River region, Maloh people  Probably early 20th century  Cotton, glass beads, and metal bells ...  In beadwork the mythical dragon-serpent (aso) often merges chameleon-like with the background.  On the back of this jacket, two aso figures with white eyes, green mouths, and curled black snouts face each other.  Their orange bodies angle down to the lower edge, supported by a tightly coiled tail.
    "Myths about heroes making dangerous journeys in search of valuable glass beads are common to the Maloh people of western Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo).  Beads are hard and durable; they are thought to provide strength and longevity to the person who wears them.  Beaded garments were worn only on the most important ceremonial occasions -- marriage, death, the opening of a new longhouse, a successful harvest.  The number of beads on garments worn to celebrate a bountiful harvest were thought to relate to the number of rice grains that would be harvested the folowing year."

* Dallas Museum of Art > Pacific Islands
"Ceremonial jacket (sape buri)  Indonesia: Kalimantan, Upper Kapuas River region, Maloh people
Probably early 20th century  Cotton, wool, shells, buttons, sequins, coins, leaf fiber, and glass beads" ...

Dallas Museum of Art > Pacific Islands *
"Ceremonial jacket (sape manik)  Indonesia: Kalimantan,  Upper Kapuas River region, Maloh people
Late 19th-early 20th century  Glass beads, cotton yarn, and bark cloth" ...

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