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>Costume Studies
>>1869 Solomon Is. chief






















Subject: warrior chief
Culture: Solomon Islander
Setting: slave raiding, tribal warfare, Solomon Islands mid 19th-early 20thc





Context (Period Sources, Event Photos)

* Varilaku 2011 p16 (Crispin Howarth, "Land, people and spiritual environment" p14-32)
"During the nineteenth and early twentieth century communities were ruled by chieftains, with every chief actively attempting to dominate other communities through political strategy -- forging alliances through arranged marriages -- as well as through bloodshed.  Each community also had a number of sorcerers and religious men, who worked to communicate and harness the magical energies of ancestral ghosts, and to use both benevolent and malevolent magic to control the weather, heal illnesses and divine success in community-focused events such as fishing and warfare."

* Varilaku 2011 p20 (Crispin Howarth, "Land, people and spiritual environment" p14-32)
"[H]ead-hunting expeditions (called geto in the Marovo Lagoon area of New Georgia) across large expanses of open water were a seasonal activity restricted mainly, but not always, to November and December when the seas were usually the calmest, making the crossing from New Georgia to Santa Isabel, Choiseul or Malaita less dangerous.  The acquisition of human heads was the primary goal of such expeditions, although men, women and children were also taken alive.  These captives were made to labour in their capturers' village and often, in the case of children, were adopted into the community.
    "A head-hunting expedition could take up to two weeks to complete a round trip, and distances between the raiding parties and their quarry became greater during the nineteenth century.  The inhabitants of nearby islands who could no longer defend themselves were wiped out or moved further inland, away from the coast, for the protection afforded by the hills.  Cheyne records that, as early as 1844, New Georgians would travel upwards of 100 miles on raiding expeditions; Woodford also noted the great distances involved, with head-hunting consuming whole populations.  'The chief hunting-ground at present time being the two islands of Choiseul and Ysabel, 90 to 100 miles away, which, however, are becoming somewhat "worked out".'"

* Varilaku 2011 p21 (Crispin Howarth, "Land, people and spiritual environment" p14-32)
​"The iron axe-head and rifle created dynamic shifts in kastom and chiefly politics, and New Georgian head-hunting became better organised.  Several communities would work together, forming alliances to create powerful raiding forces that would be difficult for an individual village to repel.  As raids became bigger and more devastating, a cycle of repetitious warfare became a grim reality.  Revenge was enacted through counter-attacks on the New Georgian aggressors by expeditions from Choiseul and Santa Isabel, which in turn had acquired firearms."


Guns

* Brunt, Thomas, Mallon, Bolton, Brown, Skinner & Küchler 2012 p189caption (Lissant Bolton, "Incursions: Loss, continuity and adaptation 1840-1900" p186-217)
"Guns were acquired in considerable numbers from the 1870s on, once Solomon Islanders began working as migrant labourers in Fiji, Samoa, New Caledonia, and above all Queensland."

* Varilaku 2011 p21 (Crispin Howarth, "Land, people and spiritual environment" p14-32)
"[An] important development was the introduction of the Snider-Enfield carbine rifle as an item of trade.  Firearms had been desirable acquisitions throughout the nineteenth century, but the chiefs had found muskets and other types of rifles difficult to maintain and use compared to the shorter and lighter carbine rifle.  An influx of more readily usable firearms in the 1860s and 1870s, supplied by undiscerning traders, made raiding expeditions even more profitable ventures."

* Brunt, Thomas, Mallon, Bolton, Brown, Skinner & Küchler 2012 p188 (Lissant Bolton, "Incursions: Loss, continuity and adaptation 1840-1900" p186-217)
"Muskets and gunpowder, Snider rifles and ammunition had been sold in considerable numbers, but the supply of these by English traders had been banned by the nascent British administration: traders operating under other national flags continued to trade firearms.  Rifles were also decorated with shell inlay.  Weapons, whether wood, stone or metal, were and are cherished by their owners, as these adaptations demonstrate."


Costume

* Varilaku 2011 p
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* Brunt, Thomas, Mallon, Bolton, Brown, Skinner & Küchler 2012 p225 (Lissant Bolton, "Transformations 1890-1940" p218-243)
"As well as marking gender, clothing might convey an individual's kinship affiliations, marital status, ritual achievements, place of origin, rank or role.  As Ben Burt observes about Malaita:
Formerly, in 'traditional times' ... Malaitans dressed in very little, but on special occasions they ornamented their bodies with fine and valuable objects.  They put on bands and combs patterned with bright red and yellow fibres, rings, pins and pendants of glistening white shell and pearlshell and straps of valuable red, white and black money beads and dolphin teeth, and coloured and scented leaves.  By this means they presented themselves as youths and maidens, husbands and wives, men of possessions, priests, warriors and worthy heirs to the ancestral ghosts whose festivals they dressed to celebrate."
The point of indicating one's identity through ornamentation, especially at festivals, is partly to do with the volume of people from the surrounding region who might be participants in such an event.  People who rarely saw each other on a day-to-day basis could read from each other's clothing what their status was, noting changes that might have occurred since they last met."​


Ornaments

* Varilaku 2011 p7 (Sir David Attenborough, "Foreword" p7)
"They ... wore dramatic jewelry -- elaborate decorative combs in their hair, armlets constructed from small shell discs each of which was pierced using a bow drill and polished with sand and sharkskin.  Important men displayed their rank with kapkaps, roundels of turtleshell, backed by a clamshell disc and cut into filigree designs of astonishing delicacy and accuracy."

* Varilaku 2011 p48 (Crispin Howarth, "The works" p43-119)
"The young and unmarried of both sexes paid great attention to their personal appearance, bachelors especially grooming themselves to appear more alluring to women.  Through adornment the wearer's wealth and community standing were also indicated. Only the strongest or most influential could afford to wear certain esteemed ornaments."


Baton

* Varilaku 2011 p79 (Crispin Howarth, "The works" p43-119)
​"Slender ritual batons ..., historically connected to the identity of the Solomon Islands and originating from southern Malaita, are known by several names, including wari-haufou'atoleelo and hau aano rereo.  A typical ritual baton is decorated along its entire length with inlaid shell ....
    "... Worn suspended from the back of the neck, with the stone section at the top, the batons indicated that a man had successfully committed homicide either in warfare or as a hired assassin."


Club

​* Burton 1890 p44
"The savage Solomon Archipelago has supplied a two-handed sabre of light and bright-yellow wood; its longitudinal width shows direct derivation from the paddle-club. There is also a lozenge-shaped hand-club, which may readily have given a model to metal-workers. It is of hard, dark, and polished wood, and the handle is whipped round with coir; the length is seventy cent. by four of maximum breadth."


Ax

* Brunt, Thomas, Mallon, Bolton, Brown, Skinner & Küchler 2012 p188caption (Lissant Bolton, "Incursions: Loss, continuity and adaptation 1840-1900" p186-217)
"In the Solomon Islands, metal axes were adapted to incorporate European blades by the mid-nineteenth century and often hafted and decorated in local styles."

* Varilaku 2011 p20-21 (Crispin Howarth, "Land, people and spiritual environment" p14-32) 
​"It was introduced European trade goods that set in motion decades of escalated head-hunting conflict.  From as early as 1844, iron axe-heads were hafted onto long shafts to make very effective weapons described as 'tomahawks', which quickly destroyed any balance of power.  Whole villages could be ransacked, more heads than ever before could be acquired, and more captives taken and put to work, increasing the power base of the victorious raiding communities.  Axes assisted in the quicker creation of more war canoes, enabling raiding parties to be doubled or trebled in size.  This in itself created further impetus for head-hunting, for the consecration of a war canoe sometimes involved the dedication of a head."

* Brunt, Thomas, Mallon, Bolton, Brown, Skinner & Küchler 2012 p188 (Lissant Bolton, "Incursions: Loss, continuity and adaptation 1840-1900" p186-217)
"Axes and axe heads were acquired not only for cutting down trees but also for despatching enemies.  Again, these objects were incorporated into both existing regimes of use and existing aesthetic systems.  Metal axe heads were set upon the same kind of wooden handle as had been used for stone axe blades.  In the Western Solomon Islands the hafting of metal axe blades onto handles was sometimes elaborated with carved and shell-inlaid images.  The Australian Museum holds such a decorated metal-bladed axe, acquired in 1884, which incorporates an image of a frigate bird head.  In this area, metal axe blades were especially prized for headhunting raids."


Shield

* Metropolitan Museum of Art 1987 p42
"The standard war shields of the western Solomon Islands were of wicker woven over cane strips, elliptical in shape.  It seems that they were manufactured on Guadalcanal and exported to the other islands.  The majority were plain or, at most, had a few designs in black paint.  A small number of shields -- perhaps under two dozen -- exist that are painted completely and encrusted with hundreds of tiny squares of luminous nautilus shell, which form designs representing a figure and several faces.  All these decorated shields seem to have been made in the 1840s-1850s.  In view of their fragility, it seems unlikely that they were used in combat.  A function as status symbols for men of high rank is more probable."