Culture: Imperial Hungarian/Magyar
Setting: Kossuth rebellion, Ausgleich, Austria-Hungary mid-19th - early 20thc
* Imperial style 1980 p86 (Katalin Földi-Dózsa, "How the Hungarian national costume evolved" p74-87)
"Socially and economically Hungary lagged behind the rest of Europe in the nineteenth century. Many Hungarian nationalist leaders felt that only by breaking away from Austria could their country assert herself and generate more trade and industry. In this political struggle, the national costume once again became a powerful symbol of political independence.
"[... T]he defeat of the  freedom movement affected the popularity of the traditional costume. These clothes were put away in the fifties, not to be seen again until about 1860, when folk dress made a comeback everywhere in Europe. Everyone on all levels of Hungarian society wore the traditional styles, and no one would be see in public without soutache on his or her clothes.
"In 1867 Austria and Hungary settled their differences, and one of the conditions of the truce was self-rule for Hungary. The most significant outcome of the treaty was the coronation of Franz Josef I in Buda in 1867. It was the Hungarian social event of the century, and nobility from all over Europe attended the coronation. The only other occasion to warrant such a display was the celebration held in 1896 to mark the thousandth year of the Hungarian nation. By this time the traditional costume was synonymous with the idea of gala in Hungary. Every family had at least two gala outfits -- a colorful one and a somber one for important funerals. People who had no heirloom gala clothes made they by copying costumes from paintings.
"The most popular colors in the early nineteenth century were pale blue and clear red trimmed with gray or white fur. Later in the century purple, dark red, and deep gray were the colors of choice, with mink or matren trim. These sedate colors contrasted sharply with the vivid colors in vogue in Paris, London, and Vienna. The traditional dresses were decorated with jewelry based on eighteenth-century designs. The men's buttons, belts, mente sashes, swords, and aigrettes were lavishly enameled and inlaid with turquoise, coral, and other precious stones."