Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg


>Costume Studies
>>1858 Rajput thakur
Subjectthakur lord, prince
Culture: Rajput
Setting: British Raj, north India mid-19th-early 20thc
Object: costume = safa/pagri turban, choga coat, anga[rakha] robe, dupatta sash/stole, juti shoes

* Textile Museum of Canada
"Man's coat (choga)  Northern India, Kashmir, 19th century  Floss silk embroidery on twill-weave pashmina  Stitches: satin and stem
The delicate embroidery on this coat (choga) was developed in Kashmir to decorate fine pashmina shawls for both domestic and export markets.
  As a luxury product, the same shawl cloth and embroidery were also used to create articles of clothing such as men's sashes and coats.
  Both were popular attire, along with the shawls, at courts in northern India, particularly Rajasthan, into the early 20th century." ...

* Poshaak
>event photos 

* Textile Museum of Canada
"Man's robe (angarakha Northern India, Rajasthan, late 19th-early 20th century  Cotton quilting on plain-weave cotton  Stitches: running
The angarakha is a formal man's outer garment, popular at Rajput courts in the 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly in Rajasthan. 
 The exceedingly fine quilting on this robe is typical of the production of professional urban needleworkers." ...

"Man's robe (angarakha)  Northern India, Uttar Pradesh, probably Lucknow, for Rajasthan, late 19th-early 20th century
Cotton embroidery on plain-weave cotton  Stitches: buttonhole, chain, lazy daisy, satin, and whip  Additional embellishment: drawn thread work
Delicate embroidery on sheer muslin (chikan-kari) was a specialty of Lucknow, Calcutta and Dhaka (now in Bangladesh).  Seventeenth-century Mughal paintings show courtiers wearing chikan work angarakhas remarkably similar to the one on display.  It is probably from the Mughals that the fashion for chikan-kari spread to regional courts." ...