Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg


>Costume Studies
>>1685 Mughal ahadi
Subjectahadi heavy cavalryman
Culture: Mughal-Rajput
Setting: Great Mughal empire, Hindustan/Deccan late 16th-early 18thc
Object: armor

* Metropolitan Museum of Art > Stone Gallery of Arms and Armor
"Helmet  Steel, gold  Indian, Mughal period, 17th-18th century"  ...

​* Metropolitan Museum of Art > Sultans of Deccan India 1500-1700
Harwood International > 2828 *
[remounted at Harwood 10]​

* Higgins Armory Museum > Scimitars to Samurai: Arms and Armor around the Globe
"The Mughal Horseman  Armored and mounted warriors like this one built an empire whose name became a synonym for power.
The Mughals invaded India from Afghanistan in the early 1500s, soon establishing an empire that would last until the age of British colonial expansion in the 1700s and 1800s.  The Mughals were Muslims who brought with them cultural traditions from Persia, Central Asia, and nomadic societies of the Asian steppes.  The name 'Mughal' actually means 'Mongol.'  In the form 'mogul' we use it today to mean any powerful person.
    "The equipment of this Mughal warrior reflects the many strands in South Asian culture.  He is equipped to fight on horseback, carrying on the Mongol tradition of cavalry warfare.  His body is protected with an expensive coat of mail containing over 11,500 individually riveted links.  Mail armor came to India through Islamic culture and ultimately from ancient Persia and Rome.  The long-bladed pata is a type of weapon found only in India, but the golden decoraiton is based on styles from Persia.  The blade was actually made in Europe, imported by European traders looking to tap into India's fabled wealth.  
    "Mughal warriors, like aristocratic horsemen in other parts of the world, had to be cultivated courtiers as well as powerful fighters.  A Mughal nobleman would be expected to compose poetry and have a fine appreciation of art, literature, and even gardening.  The floral decorations on the pata ... reflect this warrior's appreciation of nature enhanced by art."
"Kulah zirah (mail head defense), 1800s  Lahore, Punjab province (modern Pakistan)  Iron; brass  Weight: 2 lb. 14 oz." ...
"Mail shirt, perhaps 1700s  Perhaps India  Iron; leather  Weight: 18 lb. 6 oz." ...

​* Global Nautical
event photos

​* King's Armor
event photos

* Royal Armouries Museum > Oriental Gallery
​"Heavy cavalryman from the Mughal era  India, 16th-18th century
During the time of the expansion of the Mughal empire, heavy cavalry across much of northern and central India wore mail and plate armour (zereh bagtar) with helmets (kolah zereh).  Their horses were also protected by body armour called bargustavan.  The troops used various combinations of weapons, including the sword, composite bow, lance, mace (gorz) and saddle axe (tabazin).  They also carried cane shields (dhal).
    "Surviving horse armour from this period in South Asian history is extremely rare, especially in near-complete condition.  This horse armour had entered the collection at the Tower of London by 1834, and was one of the first Asian objects to be displayed in the armoury.  It had already featured in several displays in London, but had mistakenly been presented as cavalry armour of the type used by Norman knights during the Crusades.
    "[....]   The helmet, coat, horse armour and stirrups shown here are original.  The ancillary equipment, including the horse harness, bow, bow case, quiver and arrows, are modern reproductions, as the original objects are too fragile to put on open display."

​* Royal Armouries Museum > Oriental Gallery
"Mail and plate helmet (top)  Indian, Mughal, early 17th century
Constructed from riveted mail connecting shaped plates, it has a nasal bar with a large face defence.  
This helmet was still in use when it was taken at the siege of Seringapatam in 1799.  
Helmets of this type were worn by the heavy cavalry of Hyder Ali, Tipu's father." ...

​Royal Armouries Museum > Oriental Gallery *
"Mail and plate coat (zereh bagtar) and helmet (kolah zereh)   Indian, Mughal, early 17th century
Armour of this type was introduced into india under the Mughuls. The coat is constructed from mail of various sizes which are connected in alternate rows of riveted and welded links. The helmet is constructed with vertical and horizontal plates connected by riveted mail links." ...