Forensic Fashion
(c) 2006-present R. Macaraeg

Email:
ruel@
ForensicFashion.com

>Costume Studies
>>1492 Granadan knight
Subjectknight
Culture: late Moorish
Setting: Nasrid dynasty, Granada 15thc
Evolution




Context (Event Photos, Primary Sources, Secondary Sources, Field Notes)

* Nicolle/McBride 2001 p





Armor

* Al-Andalus 1992 p294-295
"By the end of the fifteenth century, the helmet of Spain showed particular characteristics, such as semicircular cutouts above the eyebrows, a turned edge, a barely developed short projection over the nape, and apertures for the ears -- peculiarities divided between two groups of Spanish helmets.  This sallet, a helmet with a low, rounded crown, combines the principal characteristics of each group, displaying, in addition to the ear coverings, which have been lost on other surviving pieces, large spherical rivet heads placed around the rim and a minimal comb with a circular opening for holding a plume or crest."

* Nicolle/McBride 2001 p
"​

Costume

* Nicolle/McBride 2001 p













Sword

*Al-Andalus 1992 p284
"Paintings in the Partal and the Sala de los Reyes of the Alhambra from the second half of the fourteenth century record a class of swords known as jinetas, a designation used in late medieval and modern documentation whose original meaning has been lost.  Extremely elaborate hilts decorated with enamel, filigree, and granulation are one of the outstanding features of these swords.  Paintings in the Sala de los Reyes that date from approximately 1380 (A.H. 782) detail the characteristics of jineta swords.  Their most distinctive peculiarity, absent in contemporaneous western arms, is highly arched quillons with internal faces that are parallel to the blade.  The grip is divided into three parts, either by virtue of its construction or its decoration.  The pommel, the knob on the end of the hilt, is in the form of a disk, following western models, or spherical, and is finished with an elongated button.  Even though the paintings in the Partal seem to indicate a military purpose for these arms, their opulence is more appropriate to ceremonial swords, reflecting the lavishness of the Naṣrid court and earning the esteem these objects have been accorded in the Islamic world."

* Boeheim 1890 p252-254
"Neben Toledo glänzten in der Klingenerzeugung in Spanien im späteren Mittelalter Almeria, Murcia, Granada, vor allem aber Sevilla, im 15. Jahrhundert auch Valencia, Saraossa, Barcelona und Cuelar in der Provinz Segovia.
    "Wir kennen keine spanisch-maurischen Waffen von höherem Alter als dem 15. Jahrhundert.  Die schönsten besitzen die Armeria Real und die Sammlung des Marquis von Villasecca in Madrid, in letzterer bewahrt man die Waffen Boabdils.  Unter den berühmten Meistern spanischer Klingenindustrie, welche wir am Schlusse anführen, ragt der Maure Julian del Rey hervor.  Er war vor 1492 noch Boabdils Dienstmann, nahm später das Christentum an und erfreute sich der hohen Gunst seines Taufpaten, des Königs Ferdinand des Katolischen.  Als seine Marke ist eine einem Hündchen ähnliche Figur angesehen, daher auch deren Name ,,perillo'', aber selbst unter spanischen Archäologen im Fache regt sich darüber ein Zewifel, und man neigt sich jetz der Ansicht zu, daß mit diesem Zeichen nich jenes Julians allein, sondern ein allgemeines, ähnlich dem Passauer Wolf, ausgedrUckt sei.  Julian arbeitete anfangs in Granada, dann in Saragossa, zuletzt aber in Toledo, zu dessen Ruhm er außerordentlich beigetragen hatte."

* Nicolle/McBride 2001 p
"​


Shield

* Al-Andalus 1992 p296 (describing an adarga, Nasrid period, second half of 15th century)
"From the beginning of the thirteenth century, the term adarga was associated with a leather shield of distinctive bilobed shape documented in the Cantigas de Santa de Santa Maria of about 1281-84. ... [I]t was an extremely common type of shield in al-Andalus ...."